Emilio’s

A culinary renaissance with deep St. Maarten roots

 The two monikers St. Maarten/St. Martin are known by – The Culinary Capital of the Caribbean and The Friendly Island – are far from marketing gimmicks. They represent what the island is truly about and embody its core economy driver: hospitality.

And, it is building on that hospitality while preserving the old and going bolding into the new post-Hurricane Irma future that has given the island something to look forward to, a sign that the St. Maarten spirit is one that can weather any storm.

That brings us to the casual bistro dining experience that is Emilio’s restaurant in Rockland Estate. This titillating culinary experience was conceived by long-time restauranteurs Norman and Su Wathey. They were busy with the project of retrofitting the old barn on what has been affectionately called “Emilio Wilson’s Estate” a few months before Irma was even brewed up off the African coast.

Their idea was straightforward – restore the 17th century boiler-house as much as possible to present a dining experience and craft a menu to make the palate dance in delight. The name of this spot is also homage to history – Emilio’s, after the man who bought the estate so many decades ago.

Emilio’s is now proof positive of St. Maarten’s culinary resilience and shows that fine dining has finally taken a foothold on “this side of the hill” – Cul de Sac.

The ambiance weaves together the solid bricks of the old plantation barn/boiler-house with chic chandeliers and intimate as well as family-sized tables. All of this is just the place-setting for the pièce de résistance – the titillating and tantalising menu! The flavours are bold, yet the subtle touches intrigue the palate. Bring your curiosity and taste buds.

Track back into recent history, aka the early days post-Irma, the Watheys, who were selected via an open call for tenders to develop the restaurant, were thinking about getting back to work on Emilio’s, bringing together food and history with top-shelf ingredients, but Norman believed there needed to be something more.

Using the only mode of transportation left to him by Irma, his bicycle, Norman hit the road and bumped into a fellow St. Maartener and famed award-winning chef, Dino Jagtiani, whose popular fine-dining restaurant Temptation was severely damaged by Irma and is closed for now.

“It didn’t take me long to come to the idea that Su and Dino would be a great team,” Norman said. It won’t be the first time the two have worked together. They had some menu collaboration for the Watheys’ other restaurant – Taloula Mango’s on Boardwalk Boulevard.

The island’s first graduate from Culinary Institute of America (CIA), Jagtiani was coincidentally one of the preferred bidders for the restaurant in the eco-park. “Irma did a lot – bad and good. Here, we are working together. Now, Emilio’s has the best of the best with Dino as executive chef and Su as restaurant manager,” said Norman who deals with operations.

“Emilio’s … Dine with History” now means so much more he said. “The coming together is the quintessential St. Maarten way of doing things. We support each other and band together. Emilio’s is a combination of talents,” he said.

Adding his unique skills and talents to this truly local venture is yet another St. Maartener, Paul Peterson, a multi-gold-medal-winning bartender famed for his ingenious cocktails at Temptation. He’s in charge of all things deliciously liquid. Oh, and let’s not forget the wine list … it is a pleasure trip for the taste buds in itself!

Now to the culinary delight! Dino’s culinary wizardry, so sought after at Temptation, is readily found throughout the menu in a variety of new inventive tapas, flat bread pizzas cooked in a brick oven and entrees. Every item is an adventure. Spoon up the St. Maarten Onion Soup made with Gouda and Gruyere cheese – half Dutch/half French. How about diving into a Nantucket Bay scallop ceviche? Why not get corrupted with food by biting into rustic-style flat bread topped with pepperoni, Italian sausage, prosciutto and much more! It’s no wonder they named it “Corruption.”

Save room for desserts. You will regret it if you don’t. There is Su’s famous carrot cake, chocolate truffle tart, pumpkin ricotta cheesecake and tempura apple sundae. Pair these with dessert beverages such as ruby port or potent Colombier Guavaberry liquor.

Live piano music will soon waft out of Emilio’s. The piano was one of the only things saved from Temptations in Cupecoy after Irma. It will have a new home in Emilio’s.

Emilio’s is open for lunch and dinner on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, lunch only on Monday and dinner only on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. 

The Daily Herald

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