After two adventure filled weeks in Honduras, Bart my travel-companion and I headed on a bus over the border to Guatemala. Our first stop was Antigua, no I am not talking about our Caribbean neighbor, I am talking about the old colonial Spanish capital of Central America.
We arrived early Christmas Eve at a dusty bustling bus station, and got a friendly Guatemalan with a truck to drive us to our hostel. We had booked a slightly nicer room for the occasion. Since I had been sleeping in shared-rooms in cheaper hostels for the past two and a half months, albeit simple, the private room now felt like a 5-star hotel suite.
Hungry we ventured out to wander the streets looking for a restaurant, instead a few blocks later we bumped into a church procession, or maybe it was more fitting to call it a parade. Dozens of people wearing masks; some religious some random (think avocados, minions and animals) danced around in a circle to Carnivalesque music in front of a huge cathedral. Christmas light lit the unusual but vibrant scene and scattered in the area were about ten food-carts offering an array of dishes; most that we did not recognize.
It was an unexpected, but somehow perfect Christmas Eve ‘dinner’ setting. We ordered a few unchartered meals from a few different carts and sat on the sidewalk enjoying the music, people and strange scenes unfolding in front of us. The spicy-pork quesadilla-looking choice was our best choice; the cooked green banana in bean sauce was our worst choice of the night.
Once our bellies were full and we had seen enough of the strange figures hopping about in the church plaza, we took a short stroll through the city. The streets were quiet and we were about to head back to the hostel when we heard faint Salsa tunes. Following the music we found a lively Salsa bar. A margarita or two later we tested our skills next to a few other couples on the crowded floor; we were no match for them in the ‘technical department’, but I’d like to think we had the most fun.
As we were leaving the bar the doorman stopped us and said: Make sure to find a good spot to see the fireworks at midnight. “Fireworks? It isn’t New Year” I thought to myself. Taking his advice we settled ourselves on a bench outside on the second story of our hostel. We were chatting away, not noticing that the clock struck 12, when the sky exploded.
I guess we had missed that Guatemalans set off fireworks on Christmas Eve. From hundreds of alleyways, backyards and rooftops by young and old; Palms, Willows, Fountains, Girandolas, Pearls, Roman Candles and more were lit. My favourite moment was when I spotted an old man; must’ve been close to 70, lit the fuse of a Sky Rocket, and ‘ran’ as fast as he could using his walking stick behind his front door before it made a deafening sound in the street below us. It was a night we would never forget.
The next morning our hostel offered all its guests an amazing Christmas Buffet. Feeling happily spoiled we had a long breakfast before setting out into the city again. Seeing Antigua in daylight for the first time we noticed how absolutely charming it was. Streetscapes of cobblestone streets and pastel facades unfolded beneath three volcanoes. Many old structures seemed beautifully renovated, while others still in ruin obviously had many stories to tell beneath the rubble.
When we came across a Chocolate restaurant and factory that offered chocolate making courses we instantly signed up. Our chef Ronnie, an excited young man took us through the ins and outs of the chocolate making process.
In Central America, including Guatemala, chocolate also known as “food of the gods,” had a 4,000-year history. Mesoamericans who first cultivated cacao plants found in the tropical rainforests of Central America fermented, roasted and ground the cacao beans into a paste that they mixed with water, vanilla, honey, chili peppers and other spices to brew a frothy chocolate drink.
Olmec, Aztec and Mayan civilizations, the latter of which ruled Guatemala during that time found chocolate to be an invigorating drink, mood enhancer and aphrodisiac, which led them to believe that it possessed mystical and spiritual qualities. The Mayans worshipped a god of cacao and reserved chocolate for rulers, warriors, priests and nobles at sacred ceremonies.
When the Aztecs began to dominate Mesoamerica in the 14th century, they craved cacao beans, which could not be grown in the dry highlands of central Mexico that were the heart of their civilization. The Aztecs traded with the Mayans for cacao beans, which were so coveted that they were used as currency. (In the 1500s, Aztecs could purchase a turkey hen for 100 beans.). About a century later chocolate would’ve spread through Europe and eventually the world.
We had a blast creating our own chocolate creations; infusing and decorating milk and dark chocolate with various ingredients. Another bonus was that we now each had a bag of chocolates to take back to the hostel. That evening we had dinner at a fancy restaurant high on the slope of a mountain; which gave us a perfect view of the whole city. Christmas had been about food, food and more food; perfect.
The next day we decided to get active, and signed up for a hike up Volcano Pacaya. Pacaya is an active volcano about an hour bus ride away from the colonial city of Antigua. It is extremely active, nearly continuously spewing ash and smoke. Several large eruptions over the past few decades have sent slow moving rivers of lava down its slopes. One especially large one in 2014 blew the top of the cone right off the peak, leaving a collapsed crater.
With a large group we headed up the volcano’s slope. The lower part of the hike was very tropical and lush and we made several stops, which made the hike pretty easy. It wasn’t too long before we emerged from the jungle and came upon a barren ridge. There we had a clear view of Pacaya’s peak. Tourists used to be able to hike all the way to the top before the eruption in 2014. Now it’s too dangerous (we actually heard it erupted again about two weeks after we were there!)
After taking in the views we made our way down into a valley with volcanic sediment and rock. The lava flows no longer glow orange, but to our delight there was still plenty of heat emanating from the vents to roast marshmallows! In the setting sun we made it up another steep ridge before heading back to the base where our ride was waiting.
The next days we explored more of the city; uncovering its history. The old city survived wars, floods, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. Talk about resilience! With its strong history, Guatemalan culture, western comfort, restaurants and activities; it was no wonder that this city became one of our favorite cities on the trip; as with many other travellers in the area.
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