Hout Bay. Jean van der Meulen/ Pixabay photo.
LF
Diverse and indigenous cuisine brought by the many ethnic people to St. Maarten from all over the world piques our interest. To this end, we are on a quest to find where it comes from, if it is used for celebrations, if it is exotic to some but everyday food to others. Anything to do with keeping the body and soul nourished with that which is produced from good old terra firma, is what makes the world go around.
Getting to South Africa is a very long-winded journey from our wee rock in the Caribbean. Flying via Miami, JFK; Heathrow includes a full day’s flying and an overnight flight then there is a day’s wait in Heathrow. One’s choice is to either head into London for the day or hang out at the airport. This trip, it was a case of hanging at the airport until the second overnight flight took off.
Flying into Cape Town is one of those wondrous events. The airplane flies down the coast of Africa and then just before reaching the end of the continent, it turns inland and descends over Table Bay, which of course is situated right below Table Mountain.
Table Mountain is truly one of those awe-inspiring sights. Landing and going through Customs went smoothly. The first afternoon was spent settling in and drinking in our surroundings. White painted Dutch styled buildings (mostly housing shops and businesses) and homes with high walls, hedges and fences are nestled in between huge trees. It is autumn here and so many of the leaves are falling. It is a pretty sight, but admittedly nowhere near as stunning as parts of America and Canada.
On the lawns, we saw wild birds called “Hadeda or Hadada” Ibis. These are very noisy birds that have only recently made their home in the Cape Town region. They are large with a heavy build and short legs, and the bill points downwards.
Their name comes from their raucous call ("ha-ha-hadaha") which they make when startled, flying or early in the morning or dusk.
Of course, these birds have a cultural connection: In siSwati, children who mimic the call of the Hadeda Ibis are told that they would grow boils all over their bodies! It is a story told to stop the children from making too much noise!
Cape Town city itself is a mix of old-style architecture and new high rises with many glass fronts. The roads through the city are very well maintained, some are three or four lanes each side. Robots – traffic lights are at almost every corner of the main roads. Roads are well marked with pedestrian crossings. Tall, lush trees are everywhere and include large date palms, plain trees, oak trees and pine trees, as well as many other clipped shrubs.
The city is buzzing with life as much as the suburbs are. On many corners, one sees oranges or clementines being sold by the bag. On other corners, the artistic Africans sell beadwork, for which they are renowned – from necklaces and bracelets, to wire structures strung with beads of birds, insects and flowers to bowls and plates also made out of bent wire and covered in beads.
The shopping centres are stunning. The variety of upmarket stores for clothing, accessories and books, as well as home goods, galleries and the supermarkets are filled with everything imaginable, but what stand out most are the fresh flowers that are sold, wrapped in brown paper cones and standing in buckets of water ready to be bought. The lovely fresh flower smell is everywhere.
In the first two days here, we have experienced many different dishes of such deliciousness, it is hard to describe. I will, of course, try to describe them to you, dear readers.
Our first stop had to be at a shopping centre to get the most important things of all – a sim card and plugs, and to exchange the money from US dollars to Rands. Lunch was needed so we enjoyed fresh fish cakes with a delightful potato salad side and fried calamari with crispy garlic and fried sage adorning the dish. Cape Town is renowned for its fresh fish. Along with that, we enjoyed an Elderflower Fizz which had a good shot of vodka to give it a kick.
That evening, we dined at an old and well-established country club called Kelvin Grove. The carpets and furniture, well-maintain gardens and sports facilities are exactly the same as I remember from my youth. However, the food has improved immensely. We enjoyed oysters and leek and potato soup, kabeljou marinated in harissa with a side of broccoli and gremolata and potato dauphinoise, sushi platter with tuna and shrimp, and steak. The wines are all from South Africa and I must say I was very impressed with the Rose! The meal ended with Cape Brandy pudding and chocolate mousse with strawberries and ice cream.
It is cold here! Night-time for us Tropic people was freezing. The sun is warm during the day – the sky was blue and there was no wind – but around corners, one walks into a “freezing” draft.
There is an amazing shopping centre in one of the suburbs that we needed to go to the second day here. The car park is above the shops. I saw something I have not seen before. As one drives into the parking, one sees a sign with red and green lights and numbers alongside. Then along the lines of parking bays above the cars are strings of lights in red and green – green being a free parking spot. No driving round and round searching for that elusive spot; follow the green light and Bob’s your uncle!
A drive to Hout (wood) Bay was on the cards. Many a sailor passing through St. Maarten has dropped their hook in Hout Bay. It is a small bay with a white-sand beach (not as soft and pristine as any beach on island) but it is surrounded by beautiful high wooded mountains and has a colony of seals living around the rocks in the sea at the mouth of the bay. There is a fishing village there which brings in the catch of the day – cold water fish caught down south as well as crayfish and mussels. One can buy fish ‘n slap chips from a few vendors, or head to one of the more upmarket restaurants along the beach front.
Of great interest was a huge, wild seal called “sexy eyes” that has become firm friends with one of the fishermen. Visitors can step over the seal’s back and give it a cuddle; it does not bite, get upset or smell fishy. The “owner feeds it whole fish all the time as it performs and listens to commands – when it has had enough, it slips from the dock and heads out to join its mate at seal island. This is the way wild and humans should be able to get along – no cages here at all.
RECIPES
Typical South African Fish Curry – this can be made with any firm white fish although “stompneus” is preferred; of course, use the chiles at your discretion.
Ingredients
3.5kg fish
5 large tomatoes, diced small
4 whole green chiles
½ onion, finely diced
½ tsp methi seeds
¼ tsp mustard seeds
2 tsp sugar
½ tsp garam masala
½ tsp turmeric powder
1½ tsp salt
4 + 1 tsp chili powder
1 TBL tamarind paste, dilute in 1/2 cup water
2 tsp ginger and garlic paste
200ml veg oil
½ tsp minced garlic
Method
Use a large based stove top pan.
Fry onions until soft and light brown.
Set chiles, 1 tsp chili powder and 1/2 tsp minced garlic aside.
Add all other ingredients to the onion.
Simmer on medium heat for 5-10mins.
Place pieces of fish in a single layer in the onion sauce.
Spoon chutney over the fish – do not turn the fish over.
Taste – and add salt if needed.
Transfer fish only, to a plate with the cooked side up.
Repeat the process if you have any more pieces of fish.
To the remaining sauce, add chiles, simmer 5 minutes, stirring.
Once the oil rises to the surface, add ½ tsp minced garlic and the 1 tsp chili powder which was set aside.
Stir while still simmering, and return fish to the pot uncooked side down.
Simmer on medium/low heat covered, allowing a little steam to escape.
(Traditionally, a sheet of newspaper is placed over the pot, but a lid will suffice.)
Coat fish with the sauce, using a spoon to gently scoop and pour over.
Simmer for 20 mins.
Check that the bottom is not burning, and simmer 6 mins longer if needed.
Garnish with chopped fresh coriander.
Savoury Mince Pies
Ingredients
Pastry – Dutch all butter or American puff pastry works a treat
10gr salted butter
10ml oil
55gr onions, chopped
5gr garlic, grated
5ml turmeric
5ml red masala
2,5ml coriander powder
2,5ml cumin powder
200gr beef mince
15ml chutney (Mrs Balls is good)
15ml smooth apricot jam
Salt and Black Pepper
Method
Melt butter and oil.
Add onions and garlic, sauté until cooked.
Add spices, stir well, cook a few minutes.
Add mince, stir, simmer until no longer pink.
Add chutney, jam, season with salt and pepper.
Stir well and remove to dish.
Set aside to chill.
Cut squares of puff pastry and fill centres with the cooled mince.
Wet edges and seal well, adding an edge by pressing with the tines of a fork.
Lightly brush egg whisked with15ml water over the tops.
Make a small slit in the top of each pie.
Bake at 160° C for 15-20 minutes until golden brown.
