I can’t believe my time in Costa Rica was almost coming to an end! I had one week left before I’d be heading to Nicaragua. Much of my time in Costa Rica so far was spent in the jungle, which I had thoroughly enjoyed but I was craving some warmth, beaches and maybe a place with some “island-like” vibes.
From other backpackers I had met along the way, I had heard that Montezuma, Santa Teresa and Tamarindo, each a different beach town along the Pacific side of Costa Rica, had their own charm and attractions that made them a favourite amongst travellers in Costa Rica.
Montezuma and Santa Teresa were both at the tip of the southern Nicoya Peninsula, which boasts some of the most pristine and remote beaches in Costa Rica. These destinations had long been off the beaten path due to the poor condition of the roads. However, in the last 10 years, the roads and public transportation have significantly improved, allowing more development on the southern Peninsula de Nicoya.
Now tourism has become an important part of the local economy, although most hotels and businesses are still small and privately owned, which has meant that both towns still have a laid-back atmosphere.
Montezuma is surrounded by scenic waterfalls and rivers, and Santa Teresa has an endless expanse of beautiful white sand beach offering some of the best surf conditions in Costa Rica.
On the other hand, Tamarindo is the most developed beach on the Nicoya Peninsula and one of Costa Rica's best-known beginner surf spots. Only a one-hour drive from the international airport of Liberia, Tamarindo is easily accessible. The bay of Tamarindo offers all kind of tourist services, along with a vibrant nightlife scene and some of Costa Rica’s best restaurants.
I was ready for it all! But I first had to make the six-hour journey to Montezuma. An early bus, then a ferry-ride across that was full of gorgeous views and loud reggaeton music and another bus to the small town.
My first 20 hours in Montezuma were actually the first time I was not that happy along my solo-backpacking trip. I arrived in a completely empty hostel that was run by a lady who definitely seemed bitter, and my room smelled like turpentine.
I tried to make the best of it, figuring I’d just move hostels in the morning, but then I had a walk through the town. It probably was partly due to the rainy weather, but the town seemed sad and empty as well. The only people I encountered were older men who, dressed like hippies, made me feel creeped out instead of “flower-power” welcome. I did, however, have possibly the best croissant in my life at the only bakery in town, which was random but definitely appreciated to lift my spirits.
I watched bad soap series at my lonely hostel and went to bed, determined to take the first shuttle out of Montezuma to Santa Teresa. The atmosphere at Santa Teresa instantly felt more welcoming to me. A kind receptionist named Diana helped me to my room at Dos Monos (two monkeys) Hostel. I was happy to see other backpackers and quickly got to know a few, including Antonieta, who was very sweet and asked if I wanted to go and explore the waterfall at Montezuma the next day.
Going back to Montezuma wasn’t a priority, but following the advice from Diana, we rented a quad for $20 each and decided to explore nearby beaches, hike to the Montezuma waterfall and visit the butterfly farm. It is always freeing to have your own form of transport, especially after having to rely on buses, shuttles and other public transportation for most of my backpacking trip. Besides that, ATVs are just a lot of fun, especially on the windy, bumpy, muddy and jungle-fringed roads of the Nicoya Peninsula!
After stopping at a few beaches, on which the intense changes in tide here in Costa Rica still impressed me, we got to the entrance of the hike to Montezuma waterfall. The path wasn’t very clear, but we were told to just keep on following the river. So that’s what we did! Jumping from rock to rock and wading through the water, we made our way up the river. I loved that it felt like we were paving our own way to the waterfall instead of following a set path. It made the hike exciting.
We could hear the rushing of the waterfall as we neared. Climbing down a few large rocks with the help of some old ropes, we were there! It had been raining a lot lately, so the water was unfortunately a bit brown, but the 24-metre cascading fall was still great to see and the water was just as refreshing! After watching a few others make dangerous plunges into the pools below – something I was not going to attempt with my fear of heights – we decided to walk back and head to Montezuma for lunch.
Now that I was with a friend, the sun was out and more people seemed to be out and about in the small town, it had a completely different feeling to it than when I had arrived just two days ago. I could now see why many travellers do enjoy their time in Montezuma. Antonieta and I shared a tasty plate of ceviche and a traditional Costa Rican plate of chicken, rice and beans, plantain and veggies.
The day went by quickly. Fuelled up after lunch, we quickly made our way to the butterfly farm where we learnt more about the local butterflies and their habitats. We ended the day by visiting some of Antonieta’s old friends who had moved to Costa Rica. Listening to their story was pretty inspiring, as it showed how easy it was to start a new life in another part of the world. It got my mind and imagination turning full speed.
The following day, I booked a tour heading to Tortuga Island. After two snorkelling sessions, during which I was surrounded by all kids of fish, the tour group and I arrived on the white sand and palm studded beach. I could quickly see why Tortuga Island is one of the most visited of Costa Rica's islands. After a delicious fish lunch, I took stroll through the tropical dry forest up to a great lookout point on which you have a 360-degree view. I also randomly saw a deer, which I’m still not sure belongs there or not.
The best decision of the day was paying Frank 3,000 Colónes, to make me the perfect ‘muy fuerte’ rum cocktail in a coconut. After a few days of relaxation, coconuts and quiet nights, I was ready for the upbeat and busy town of Tamarindo. The vibe at ‘La Botella De Leche’ put me in an instant party mood, and seeing a few friends I had met in Monteverde at the same hostel made it even better. I also was just in time to join in on a sunset horseback-riding trip.
Costa Rica has a long and intimate history with horses. Working horses are still quite common in Costa Rica. The sabañeros of Guanacaste are exceptional riders and in many rural areas, a horse may still be a family’s main mode of transportation. One of the most popular parts of any fiesta patronal (regional celebrations of history and culture) is the Tope – a parade of the horses and show of horsemanship.
Our guide, who was probably around his late 50s, told us he had been working with horses since the age of 11. He started out on farms, and when tourism grew in Tamarindo, he was hired to guide trails. He led our horses through farmlands, little towns and, eventually, just in time for sunset on the long, wide beach of Tamarindo. White horse, riding into the setting sun, on a white sandy beach, all I needed was a shirtless muscular man with shoulder-length hair and I’d be part of a cliché but satisfying romance novel.
The rest of my time in Tamarindo was spent exploring the coast on foot and in a kayak. Before I knew it, it was time to step on a bus to Nicaragua. I was reluctant to leave a country I had had so much fun in, but also very excited to explore more! I had heard great things about Nicaragua from other backpackers, including the fact that food would be very, very cheap. Besides that, Adam (my brother from another mother), who I had sailed with through the Pacific three years ago, was living in Nicaragua.
By Laura Bijnsdorp
Hasta Luego Costa Rica! Aquí vengo a Nicaragua! Follow Laura’s travels on Instagram: laurasxm
