Our quest is for diverse, indigenous cuisine brought by the many ethnic people to St. Maarten from all over the world. We have done well and covered many ethnic groups – not all yet by any means – we have had some input about wines; we have covered high-days and holidays and have looked at individual foods, resolutions and certain celebrations. This week, we visit the southern tip of Africa to where the Breede River flows and the African Fish Eagles soar.
The Breede (Broad) River is located in the Western Cape Province of South Africa. This is the longest navigable river in the Western Cape and provides vital irrigation for the fruit and wine farms that can be found in Breede River Valley. The river flows through towns that have become important agricultural areas due to the ease with which farmers can get the land irrigated. It is about 320km from source to mouth.
Friends who used to live on St. Maarten are at the moment spending time at the river mouth. The river draws people like a magnet, for it is wide, offers a lot of opportunities to catch seafood, is calm enough for doing various types of water sports, and allows one to feel as if the rest of the world has passed one by. It is a timeless area that offers serenity and peacefulness because one can immerse oneself into the natural surroundings.
I have been very fortunate to spend many happy days along the river’s bank over the course of a number of years. We have hiked and camped in the mountains where the source of the river is; we have played in the orchards in the valleys and swum in the cool water as it flows by; we have swum, fished, camped and had unbelievable parties at the river mouth on the Indian Ocean; we have crossed the river on a pontoon that dates back to 1860 when it first started ferrying goods across to the wee hamlet of Malgas.
The Malgas “pont” is famous for being the last hand-drawn pont of its kind in the country. Today it remains the only way of crossing the Breede River on the back roads by vehicle – no bridge has ever been built due to the big, fast, national road further inland.
The river has many smaller rivers joining it on its journey to the sea; these include the Holsloot and Smalblaar Rivers that start way up in the mountains called Du Toitskloof and Stettyn. Then there is the Hex River that finds its way to the Breede River along with the Slang and Buffeljags Rivers which drain from the Langeberg mountains. Near the fruit growing region of Swellendam, the river is joined by the Riviersonderend which feeds from one of the many dams that have been constructed. These mountains are usually covered in snow during the long and chilly winter months. There is a lot of fresh water there.
Some of the dams, built before the 1960s, were built specifically to irrigate the lower-lying valleys – a few of them have also become a great place for water skiing with holiday parks and camping areas along the shores.
The Breede River flows gently; there are no crocodiles, hippos or mosquitoes on this river, not like the many other rivers further inland. What one does see fairly often are Bull Sharks that swim into the mouth of the river in search of food. Shark attacks do not happen here (I may be incorrect but I know of none recorded) – even though these bull sharks are larger than average – perhaps because they have a habit of stealing the fisherman’s catch!
The estuary is called Witsand (Whitesands); here the tidal difference can be seen especially at spring when the sea can push up river about 50km; nearby is Cape Infanta which is a premier whale-watching destination in early summer.
The longest wine route in the world, Route 62, starts from a town along the Breede River in a region well known for the Hanepoot and Muscadel dessert wines.
There are records dating back to 1488 when the Portuguese recognized the Breede River Mouth as the finest natural anchorage on the whole southern seaboard of Africa.
In 1576, the King of Portugal’s navigator named the bay and in 1790, the records show that the bay and area were surveyed by a French sea captain.
In 1798, word of the beautiful bay encouraged the British to visit the area. In 1800, records show that the river was suitable for navigation “up to six hours inland, with excellent safe loading places for small vessels along either bank. However, in1802, a German Baron crossed the river in a small boat and pronounced it “only three to four feet deep at low tide, thus only suitable for sloops and long flat vessels, such as one sees on the Main, Nekker and Weser in Germany.” He also recorded that an English ship was anchored in the Breede River mouth.
It appears that this river was thought to be best used as a pit-stop for the ox-wagons that were making their way into the hinter land. The records then give an insight to trading posts being set up – very little is mentioned about farming or fishing, although there were farms producing wool, wheat and aloe sap which were shipped back to Cape Town.
Then in 1832, there is a record of a farmhouse being built near the river mouth. From around 1860 onwards, it was found to be quicker to transport goods from Cape Town by ship than by ox wagon, and so the river route going 50km upriver was a lifeline for the inland valleys.
1908/1909, villages and hamlets were being built; 1911 the first post box was established with a post office and telephone only reaching there in 1926.
The slow moving region was not without many unfortunate events, the main ones being to do with the sinking of vessels in the river mouth and the bay – some of these wrecks can be seen at low-tide today.
Recipes
Fruit, wine, braais (BBQ), stews in potjies over the coals and huge roasts in the oven, desserts and pap (porridge) and of course fish and shellfish will be found piling plates high in the most hospitable way. With such a wealth of sustenance available in this area, I can offer you the following recipes to try.
Early morning Rusks – The dew, wet on the grass, the air still and chilly, and the call of the fish eagle echoes through the valley in the early morning. The campfire is burning bright and a pot of water is coming to the boil as it swings over the low flames. Soon the smell of fresh brewed coffee wafts across the campsite and the rustle of a tin of “boerebeskuit” brings other sleepy heads from their tents.
Ingredients
1 kg flour
12½ ml baking soda
25 ml cream of tartar
10 ml salt
250 ml sugar
250 g chilled butter
350 ml buttermilk
1 egg
Butter for greasing
Milk to glaze
Method
Preheat oven 450° F.
Sift dry ingredients, stir till well mixed.
Rub in the chilled butter
Beat buttermilk and egg together, add to dry ingredients.
Mix to a firm dough.
Pinch off golf ball sized pieces of dough, press lightly into rectangular shape approx. 2cm thick.
Place close together in two greased loaf pans (30cm x36cm x 7cm)
As you put the rectangle balls into the loaf pan, brush sides of balls lightly with melted butter so that the rusks will break apart easily after being baked.
Brush tops with milk.
Bake 400° F 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 325°F and bake for further 50 minutes.
Turn out on cooling rack.
When cool, break neatly into individual rusks; allow to dry out in a very low oven – 200° F
Store in an airtight tin – dunk in coffee and enjoy!
Tamatie Bredie - best cooked in a cast iron pot/Dutch oven over coals but an oven will do too! Bredies are always better the next day.
Ingredients:
2 lb mutton shoulder – goat can be used
1½ cups water
6 ripe red tomatoes
70g can tomato paste
3 potatoes
3 cloves garlic
2 onions
1 chicken stock cube
2 tbl oil
1 tbl butter
1 tbl potato flour
2 tsp sea salt
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp mixed herbs
Good pinch freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp paprika
¼ tsp chili powder
Method:
Dice meat into 1½ inch cubes.
Peel, dice potatoes.
Peel, crush garlic.
Peel, chop onions.
Heat oil and butter in a big, heavy-bottomed pot until the butter discolours.
Add meat in batches, stir-fry until brown – remove each batch and set aside.
Season browned meat with salt and pepper.
Sauté onions oil and butter until golden.
Add tomatoes, tomato paste, sugar, chili, paprika, garlic, herbs, water and stock.
Bring to a slow boil.
Add prepared meat; reduce heat, cover, and simmer bredie very slowly for 2 hours.
Add cubed potatoes; continue simmering for another ½ hour.
Thicken gravy with a little potato flour mixed with water.
Prepare a day in advance and leave to mature in the refrigerator.
Reheat and serve with steamed rice.
