Healthy Hair

Coating and stripping 

I have always been obsessed with my hair, whether it’s long or short, and my hairstyles change so frequently I’m not sure if people even recognize me anymore. But no matter what styles I try, the final goal for my hair journey is for it to be healthy. However, at some point, I found myself in a position where my hair was in its worst state and I was unsure of how to bring it back to life. That fight to find out what was going on with my hair has led me to many places. Here I have compiled just a bit of the information I’ve discovered since I started my hair journey.

I once got some advice on how to avoid more damage to my hair. It was to absolutely avoid further stripping of my strands of hair with bleach. You see, hair is mainly composed of proteins called keratin. People get their natural hair colour depending on the ratio and quantities of two other proteins, eumelanin and phaeomelanin. Eumelanin is responsible for brown to black hair shades while phaeomelanin is responsible for golden blond, ginger and red colours. The absence of either type of melanin produces white/grey hair. In order for people with darker hair to lighten the strands, there has to be a bleaching agent introduced to strip away the proteins. If not done professionally or properly, this leaves the hair quite dry and void of nutrients, which in turn leads to hair loss. Because my hair has received so much processing, before I can even begin to use relaxer and strip down the follicles even further, I will have to rebuild the follicles. The only way to do that is to help rebuild my hair through a series of carefully monitored treatments and periodic oil supplements. My hairdresser suggested I use egg and extra virgin olive oil as my weekend treatments. And a mixture of extra virgin olive oil with the keratin infused oil she gave me. The one extreme specification I was given was to get the extra virgin oil with the almost black colour, as it is usually a sign the oil hasn’t been overly processed; the more natural the better. Another possibly controversial piece of advice she gave me was to dye my hair in a very dark colour.

If you’re not certain why this would be her recommendation, think of it like this: What is the opposite of bleaching? Dyeing the hair with colour treatments without stripping agents allows the colour to coat the strands of hair with an additional layer. That additional layer will act like a makeshift protective layer until the hair has been properly grown and cared for. Thanks to her help, I knew what direction to go in. For the next few weeks, I worked on rebuilding the proteins in my hair by using the oils and treatments I fought so hard to avoid. In also added more water to my diet, because healthier bodies produce better nutrients for growth.

Safety is sexy

The one important step I took before I put my hair in a protective style was deep conditioning my hair before I even decided what style I would go with. What we tend to forget is that while our hair is being contained in one style for a long time, it also needs to be maintained. Therefore, before you make the choice to hide your hair, remember to deep condition first – lightly moisturize during and another deep conditioning after your hair is released.

One practice I have adopted over the years is to periodically clean my scalp. I would use cinnamon essence, which can be found in literally any beauty supply store. Apply it with a cotton ball and use it to absorb and clean the residual dead cells and dirt that accumulate when your hair isn’t being washed. The cinnamon essence burns a little, but once the burning stops after a few seconds, your scalp will begin to feel tingly and the smell is a very pleasant one in comparison to what it would be if you hadn’t cleaned it. There is a need to lightly moisturize after so that your hair follicles don’t dry out and break.

Over the years of seeing and experiencing negative hair service, I have developed some serious trust issues with people dealing with my hair. Hence, I have been using the same four women to do different tasks for years. This is because I found that my hair really thrived under the care of certain women. I have a lady I use to wash, treat and mildly style my hair. There is another I use for braiding, and another for specific types of weaving. But there are some things, like weaving for example, that I do for myself. However, not everyone is like me; so in order to know who would be a good match, make sure to follow the following guidelines:

1. Take your time.

You may need to have your hair done immediately, but make sure you take time to know who will be handling your hair. There is nothing like gingerly caring for your hair only to have your edges yanked out by a hack. Before you choose the right person to do your hair, make sure they know what they’re doing. I like to look at other women clients: What does their hair look like after a few weeks? Do they experience loss of edges or damaged hair afterwards? If you don’t know anyone who has had their hair done by the stylist, perhaps you can sit in on one or two of her sessions to see the techniques she uses.

2. Don’t look at pricing.

Prices vary and high prices don’t ensure excellent quality. This is pretty self-explanatory: Because some people know there is a high demand, they overcharge but they can damage your hair, but others are worth the high prices. If your stylist has a degree, expect to pay more, but usually they are the best bet to try for a first-time visit.

3. Sometimes, it’s okay to follow the crowd.

Higher client volume usually means they’re good, but you’ll probably have to schedule way in advance.

4. Like attracts like.

I tend to choose women who have similar hair to mine. Not for any other reason but that they have a better understanding of my situation. If they have similar hair textures, they tend to have the same issues I do and would have better advice for me, because they spend their days trying to counteract the same things as I am.

5. Don’t flip flop between stylists.

Finally, remember if your stylist isn’t available, don’t try out the new girl on a whim just so you can get your hair done on the same day. Not only is it disrespectful to your stylist, but the odds are you won’t be as satisfied if you’ve found someone you really like.

Understanding hair loss

Recently, I experienced some hair loss as I undid my hair from the protective styles. It is a perfectly normal reaction, but it is a disconcerting reaction to receive from something intended to help your hair growth. In some cases, the hair loss may come from the follicles being pulled beyond their limits during the braiding process, but this is not always the case. Here is a compiled list of causes for excessive hair loss. Why? Because hair loss is a reality and no matter how icky it makes you feel inside, it happens.

 Causes of hair loss

1. Trauma

Physical trauma falls under a variety of categories, such as severe illnesses, surgeries, car accidents and even flus. Hair experiences three phases in its life cycle: growth, rest and shedding. Trauma causes a disruption in this process and can be noticeable three to six months after trauma. Pregnancy, depending on who you ask, is a joyous occasion for those involved, but there is an incredibly stressful toll it takes on the human body, which can also cause temporary hair loss.

Sudden weight loss can be great, but it can also lead to the loss of hair, but the body regains the hair after a time. Emotional stress is also a factor in traumas. While it is less likely to cause the body to lose hair, the results – depending on how severe the emotional issue – can be hair loss. The stress of divorce, caring for an older patient or death can have an incredibly horrible toll on one’s hair. Chemotherapy is another form of trauma.

2. Hormones

Remember when you switched birth control and your body started doing weird things? No? You’re one of the lucky ones. What about menopause? Oh, the havoc wrought on your hormones during menopause goes beyond simply having hot flashes and mood swings. The loss of oestrogen can activate the androgen (male hormone) receptors on the scalp leading to hair loss.

Antidepressants, blood thinners and other medications alter the chemical makeup of your body and contribute to those falling strands. Depending on the side effects, the hair loss may lessen as your body becomes readjusted or heals from the process of getting better. Other times, you may have to consult your doctor for alternate options or doses.

3. Vitamin & mineral imbalances

There is an increase in the usage of multivitamin supplements. However, supplements can contain harmful amounts of Vitamin A. The body can only consume 5,000 International Units (IU) of Vitamin A, if you consume the supplements, it’s possible to consume anywhere between half and twice that amount. Similarly, if you do not consume enough protein or Vitamin B, your body can compensate while halting hair growth.

4. Heredity

Sometimes it really is your parents’ fault.

5. Diseases

Anaemia, Hypothyroidism, Alopecia, Lupus, Polycystic Ovary Syndrome and Trichotillomania are some of the more common hair loss diseases. If you have been diagnosed with one of the previously listed diseases, there is a great chance you are currently losing your hair.

6. Excessive styling

When hair is beautiful and healthy, we get carried away styling it, so avoid over-styling to avoid hair loss.

7. Aging

As we get older, hair falls out.

There is a distinct pattern for the causes of hair loss, which is along the lines of hormonal changes, physical stresses, or any drastic changes to the body’s chemical makeup. I genuinely dislike sharing this kind of information, because we’ve all been convinced we have deadly diseases – thanks to Googling the symptoms. See a physician; it may simpler than you think.

Disclaimer: This article is meant to inform and is in no way a form of diagnosis. If you are experiencing extreme or disconcerting hair loss, please see a licensed physician for a proper finding.

The curiosity with porosity

Thanks to the natural skin and haircare revolution for hair types across every spectrum, women and men alike now look to less chemically damaging alternatives for grooming methods. One of the more praised natural cure-alls happens to be good old coconut oil. It’s been proven to work miracles for both inside and outside the body. However, what happens when the natural treatments aren’t working for you? Why can’t your hair receive and keep that moisture locked into place? Is there something wrong with your hair? No. Perhaps you just need to understand your hair a bit more. One very important factor in how your hair health depends greatly on something called porosity.

 Hair porosity

Porosity refers to how well your hair is able to absorb and hold moisture. It is affected by the flexible outer hair layer called the cuticle, which determines how easily moisture and oils pass in and out of your hair. For most, porosity is genetic, but it can also be affected by external factors such as exposure, heat treatments and chemical processing. Knowing your hair’s porosity can help you choose the right products to keep your hair well-moisturized, supple, strong and shiny.

Determining hair porosity

There are two methods you can use to find out how porous your hair is: (1) The float test: Take a couple of strands of hair from your comb or brush and drop them into a bowl of water. Let them sit for 2-4 minutes. If your hair floats, you have low porosity. If it sinks, you have high porosity. (2) The slip'n'slide test: Take a strand of hair and slide your fingers up the shaft (toward the scalp). If you feel little bumps along the way, this means that your cuticle is lifted and that you have high porosity. If your fingers slip smoothly, then you have low porosity hair.

1. Low porosity

Hair with low porosity has a tightly bound cuticle layer with overlapping scales that lay flat. This type of hair is usually considered healthy, and is often very shiny, especially when it's dark in colour. Low porosity hair repels moisture when you try to wet it and is hard to process since it resists penetration of chemicals.

Low porosity hair is also prone to build-up from protein-rich deep conditioning products, which can leave it feeling stiff and straw-like. Stick to protein-free, daily conditioners with humectants such as glycerine or honey. Use moderate heat with protein-free deep conditioning treatments to help open up the tightly bound cuticle.

Low porosity hair requires moisturizers rich in emollients such as shea butter, jojoba oil, coconut oil and mineral oil. It also benefits from humectant products, which attract and hold moisture to your hair. Choose lighter, liquid-based products such as hair milks that won't sit on your hair and leave it oily or greasy.

2. Medium porosity

Hair with medium porosity often requires the least amount of maintenance. The cuticle layer is looser, allowing just the right amount of moisture to enter while preventing too much from escaping. Hair with normal porosity tends to hold styles well, and can be permed and coloured with predictable results.

Over time, however, these processes can damage your hair and increase its porosity. Occasional deep conditioning treatments with protein conditioners can benefit medium porosity hair, but proteins should not be included in your daily regimen.

3. High porosity

High porosity can be either an inherent property of hair or the result of damage from chemical processing, rough treatment or environmental damage. High porosity hair has gaps and holes in the cuticle, which let too much moisture into your hair and leave it prone to frizz and tangling in humid weather.

Even simple acts such as bathing, swimming and shampooing can create more damage and breakage due to the sheer amount of moisture highly porous hair can absorb. Be sure to use anti-humectants in climates with high heat and humidity. This will help seal your damaged cuticles and prevent them from absorbing excess moisture in the air.

Because highly porous hair can also lose moisture easily, it's important to use leave-in conditioners, moisturizers and sealers. Layering these products will help your hair hold on to the moisture you're giving it. You can even follow up with a heavy hair butter to help fill the gaps in your damaged cuticles and further protect your hair from losing too much moisture.

Quick tips

The following are some tips about how not to spend hours in the beauty store tormenting the sales ladies:

1. Desired outcome

Sometimes you just want the same hairstyle Rihanna showed off this week.

Budget: Okay, maybe you can’t afford Rihanna level weaves, but maybe you can fake it till you make it.

2. Quality

If you’re not ballin’, expect the label to say “Human”, but know Barbie donated this bundle.

3. Duration

Some budget brands will last longer than big names, but care along with trial and error is necessary.

4. Installation

If you’re doing the installation yourself, CAN you install the hair you’re looking at?

All of the steps are interchangeable, but once you have these four factors in mind, you should be able to make a better decision. There are cheats to this rule where braiding is concerned. The very popular boxed braids can be bought for as low as $2 per package and the braid can last up to a month depending on your hair growth and the installation.

 Now that you know what to look for, don’t let the knowledge go to waste, try it out on your own and let us know how you really feel about the information provided.